alt porn star stoya talks about role of beauty, women and the public eye, feminism and cats… in all honesty we don’t care what she talks about, we are listening…

olivia singer of wonderland magazine discusses the role of beauty in life, feminism and instagramming cats with alt-porn star, stoya.

 

stoya was born to a scottish father and a serbian mother.

 

porn star stoya was the first ‘alt-porn’ girl to be signed to a contract by digital playground, one of the commercial powerhouses of the pornographic industry. raucously outspoken about what sex on camera means to her and the artifice manifested in her performances, writing about queer culture and heteronormativity for vice whilst instagramming her cats, she doesn’t conform to what we she doesn’t acquiesce to typically assumed conventions of adult performers.

polaroids of stoya, she is is an american semi-retired pornographic actress, model, and nonfiction writer.

home-schooled by a feminist mother in north carolina, she now exists between new york where she works on performance art and los angeles, with her porn star boyfriend.

 

olivia singer spoke with her about growing up in a powerfully liberal environment, what it’s like not looking like the rest of the digital playground girls and how many exfoliators she uses to keep her looking camera-sex-ready.

thank you so much for agreeing to talk to us about this stuff, i think your perspective on beauty and performance is really interesting…
i feel a personal responsibility to talk about the realities of all of this. in porn work, the actual videos and photo shoots for porn magazines, beauty is very overdone: tons of makeup, overdrawn lips, glossy. and then, all of the photoshop that gets piled on and then the ungodly amount of money and time that i spend on exfoliating and moisturizing and hair removal on top of that. maybe to some people i look awesome even with no makeup on, but all of this work that goes into that even that would be ridiculous if i was a secretary or a professional writer. when i retire and what i look like no longer directly affects my bank account, hell no, i’m not going to spend that much on face cream! that would be absurd!

she began her porn career in 2007 in the alt porn scene. as a child, she wanted to become a dancer, and started dance lessons at the age of three. she was home-schooled and received her high-school diploma before the age of sixteen.

 

there’s such a culture right now of examining women in the public eye with an hd lens and criticizing them for how they exist ‘off-camera’, but you’re so honest about yourself online.

i think it will be wonderful that so many people are growing up in public right now. at some point in the fairly near future, we’re gonna have to really come to terms with the fact that everyone has fucked up in public to some degree and then we’ll hopefully start to give everybody a bit of a break. what entertains me no end is that people look at me and are like, ‘you could be my daughter, you look like the girls my daughter hangs out with’ and they have to rethink the humanity of performers. it’s pretty cool. and on top of that, i just decided to get fucked in the ass on hd video and after the inside of your rectum is available in matte high definition on demand, it’s pretty hard to get embarrassed about anything. oh, you have a picture of me throwing up in a lemonade container? cool. the whole of the internet can see the inside of my asshole!

did you grow up with a sense of freedom about yourself and your body?
yeah, my mum is awesome. i was home-schooled with her. she was very active in women’s rights and i just grew up thinking, ‘right! it’s my body, i can do whatever i want, i can do whatever i want with career options and whatever i want with who i choose to interact with in a sexual way.’ i had this wonderful sense of entitlement to just be a person. but then what t i wanted to do was have sex in public on camera – and not only do that but do it in a very false eyelashes, high heels, all the aesthetics of the patriarchy kind of way. so she was a little bit bumpy for a few years… but she’s coming around.
i was intrigued that digital playground has offered you free breast implants when your aesthetic angle is so much about being lean and sexy in a less conventional way.
a lot of girls come into this because they want to be a porn star, and they have an idea of what a porn star is. and that involves huge breasts; if they weren’t born with huge breasts, then they wanna have ‘em anyway. so i took it as digital being very kind but not knowing my personality very well. most of the contract girls over the years at all of the different companies have had very large breasts. [laughs] there was one point where we were all bunched up for some picture at a convention and i looked around and suddenly felt, ‘wow! i’m the only one here that’s really pale and has small breasts and dark hair, i feel kind of gangly and awkward, this must be like what puberty was like for most people!’

her father worked as an IT consultant, stoya had access to electronics and gaming equipment, through which she developed her love of technology. “i was three when i was using DOS. my mom taught me how to read, and my dad taught me how to navigate DOS”


that’s funny. with how you present yourself aesthetically, did you grow up looking up to skinny, pretty, goth-y looking ladies?
i grew up looking up to margot fontaine, and simultaneously looking up to and wanting to choke my mother. but makeup for me was a stage-only thing: i wanted to be a ballerina, so it was that horrible baby blue eyeshadow up to your eyebrows and lipstick on your cheeks. i wasn’t messing around with it until i was 13, when i went through my goth phase and drew all over my face with liquid eyeliner and would wear purple lipstick with craft glitter pressed into it. then, for the signings and being on set and all of that, there’s always a makeup artist that takes care of that stuff for you. so i started thinking about it more, like, ‘oh if i wear just mascara on the upper eyelashes and little bit of concealer, i look so professional and trustworthy and polished.’ and it became this whole fun thing, another way of how you present yourself to the world.
are there any cosmetics that you particularly into? you must have the best exfoliator in the world.
there’s a rice powder from pacha. and i’ve been spending a lot of time in southern california because my boyfriend lives here, and the air is so dry! there’s this brightening serum, and almond oil, both from l’occitane, and i slather myself in that stuff head to toe like four times a day.

polaroid above

so are you in la full time now?

all my shoes moved here. and my three cats. that’s pretty much the barometer of where i live.
for me, it’s my cosmetics.

UK fashion publication – pop magazine stylist tamara rothstein and (non polaroid photography) of stoya by sean & sang

you should be a beauty editor and get sent stuff!
i do get sent stuff sometimes and it’s amazing… the novelty doesn’t wear off, either, every time i get a free lipstick i’m like, ‘oh my god, free lipstick, my teenage dreams come true!’

vice news explicit interview with stoya – sorry youtube requires a login

when i was a kid, i wanted to perform in new york, surrounded by lunatics and rhinestones and have wonderful artist friends. and every time i trip over a stray rhinestone that’s come off one of my costumes, i think, ‘man, my life is so cool!’ i want to go back in time to the little home-schooled girl who had corrective lenses and a lazy eye and braces and a back brace for scoliosis…

i just wanna go back and be like ‘hang in there! it’ll be alright!’ i would also give her some makeup grade glitter instead of that craft stuff. i don’t want her to ruin her gastrointestinal tract. by lb

TCB / Gstar / momotaro / levis / evisu salvaged raw denim

TCB – two cats brand

williamsburg garment co.

g-star raw denim

evisu raw denim

 

levis engineered jeans

 

14-oz. white oak selvedge

momotaro jeans

gucci jeans salvage

altered jeans

jeans, jeans, jeans… doing some research on jeans. no one brand or fit is right for everyone. i loved the APC selvedge jeans for years but don’t love the cuts any more. my fav is still maybe the levis engineered jeans of the late 90s… but good luck finding  a new one – i have found some random brands using selvedge jeans materials but they are way too expensive these days. alternatively indigo dyed denim can work, it has a similar deep color but not as dense and rugged as the selvedge.  selvedge denims are made from denim that is woven using a shuttle loom, which creates a strong, durable weave and a self-finished edge that prevents unraveling. to identify selvedge jeans, you can look at the inside of the outseam. if the edges look finished and the yarns of the self-edge are a different color than the fabric, then it’s selvedge. but like i said they are stiff and they bleed. n one thing is right for everyone. what ever you do never wash your denim. by uh

paradigm universe introductions : the substance meet helter skelter

helter skelter is a 2012 japanese horror film about a top model who undergoes cosmetic surgeries to maintain her appearance

directed by mika ninagawa staring erika sawajiri

“the substance” 2024.  —-   “helter skelter” 2012

have not seen it yet but on my list. this is a cult classic and after seeing the substance i was reminded that i must see this asap. by tt

Rebranded Al-Qaeda : is now our friend… the twilight zone guide to HTS

the twilight zone guide to HTS

like all real terrorists, HTS chief, jolani got a new PR image and a hair transplant!

US president biden and israeli prime minister netanyahu boasted of helping topple bashar al-assad. NATO member turkey played a key role as well. ben norton explains how the west became buddies with its enemy. by xy

shame on Denmark, after sweden and the assange debacle we’re beginning to loose faith in the nordic countries we once loved… minus our sweet norway of course…

anti-whaling activist paul watson was arrested in greenland on july 21, 2024

watson was arrested in nuuk, greenland by danish police while aboard the john paul de joria

read the paul watson guradian article here

watson was arrested in response to an interpol red notice from japan (oh… i see… so there is international law after all… but only when you are to arrest real criminals, like an environmentalist who’s trying to save our oceans!)

so did paul watson kill 1,000’s of men, women and children? did he steal anyone’s property or starve them to death? no…. “japan alleges that watson and his crew damaged a japanese whaling vessel in 2010 and injured a crew member with a stink bomb” no this is for real and not a joke…

“it is accepted by the prosecution that watson, who has been involved in thwarting whalers for five decades, was not present at the time of the alleged crime. it is instead claimed that he was party to the decision by the activist peter bethune to board the vessel and throw a stink bomb on to its deck.” – the guardian

watson and “the captain paul watson foundation” have appealed the decision to the supreme court. protests have erupted worldwide, condemning denmark’s cooperation with japan. watson’s defense team argues that japan’s extradition request is based on “false” claims. they also claim to have video footage proving the crew member was not on deck when the stink bomb was thrown.

its really a sad time when interpol red notices are issued for such absurd ‘crimes’ and only to then watch the rest of the world go to shit infront of our eyes. by kl

 

George Orwell’s 1984 is unfolding before our eyes: “surveilled” a documentary on how democracies fall with ronan farrow

journalist ronan farrow investigates the growing commercial spyware industry – and the ethical dilemmas of 21st century cyberespionage.

“surveilled” movie trailer

interview with journalist ronan farrow

tracking the new yorker journalist ronan farrow as he investigates the growing business of commercial spyware, following the story from new york city to tel aviv, israel, a thriving center of espionage cybertechnology (including the NSO group, and black cube). once a target of covert surveillance himself, (while investigating harvey weinstein who had hired black cube to intimidate farrow) farrow explores the multibillion-dollar industry, addressing the twofold uses and implications of phone hacking, the ability to monitor criminal activity and the attendant threats to civil liberties. most important now more than ever. by dd

La Vallée: Barbet Schroeder’s 1972 very french (but not very good) film

original movie poster for la vallée also knows as “obscured by clouds”

the expression “obscured by clouds” refers to those areas that have never been cartographically surveyed since they are always blanketed in cloud

pink floyd created the music fo rth film and named their album “obscured by clouds” after a clip in the film with a map stating the words

viviane (ogier), the wife of the french consul in melbourne, joins a group of explorers in search of a mysterious hidden valley in the bush of new guinea, where she hopes to find the feathers of an extremely rare exotic bird. along the way through the dense jungles of papua new guinea and on the peak of mount giluwe…

she and the small group of explorers make contact with a native tribe called the “mapuga”, portrayed as one of the most isolated groups of human beings on earth, who inspire them to explore their own humanity, unfettered by their own subjective ideas of “civilization”. the search becomes a search for a paradise said to exist within a valley marked as “obscured by cloud” on the only map of the area available dated as surveyed in 1969.

came across this film aftrer watching a documentary called “chit chat with oysters” as floyd had done the music for this film. doesn’t look great, and rather sentimental and french, and i mean that not in a good way as we love the great french films. maybe worth a watch just for the imagery, good luck finding it, but in the mean time heres a review by anet maslin in the new york timesin may of 1981

“the beginning of barbet schroeder’s ”the valley obscured by llouds” finds viviane (bulle ogier) wearing a trim little dress and high heels, traipsing elegantly through the jungle as only a chic frenchwoman can. the bored wife of a diplomat stationed in melbourne, she is in new guinea to buy feathers, which she sells to a paris boutique.

in the trading post where she is first seen, she encounters the blond, bare-chested olivier (michael gothard), who claims to know where some fine feathers can be found. he seems to be making a few other claims too, but it is only the feathers that he mentions. anyhow, viviane soon embarks, with olivier and several very solemn, self-important hippies who are his friends, on a journey into the wilderness. they are in search, respectively, of feathers and truth …

viviane’s feathery-headedness may be something mr. schroeder intended. after she witnesses the spectacular mapuga festivities that mark the film’s climax, she cries ”olivier, isn’t it wonderful? we’ve become so close to them we’re practically one of them – we’ve found truth, you know!”

olivier quickly shoots a hole in this theory, but only a few minutes later the film is over, with viviane supposedly on the brink of enlightenment. has she really found wisdom through the mapugas? or is she merely fascinated by their makeup and jewelry ideas? schroeder is … neither an observer of nor a participant in his material, and the middle ground he inhabits remains ill defined. his film is by no means uninteresting, but it lacks the clear vision that might have turned it into a genuine act of exploration.” by ar

the eyes of indigenous peru: martin chambi the man who inspired irving penn and the cast at tomorrow started

“it is believed that indigenous peoples have no culture…that they are barbarians,” declared martín chambi after exhibiting his photographs in chile in 1936.

“that is why i am undertaking this task,” he affirmed. as an indigenous descendant, chambi devoted his decades-long career to photographing the lives and surroundings of the peruvian people of the southern andes during the early 20th century.

from formal studio portrayals of peru’s diverse society to chronicles of the andes and their environs, chambi’s work remains a testament to his drive for capturing his country’s history and culture.

sihuana (above) one of martín chambis most famous photographs – “two giants from cusco” (1925)

sihuana was the peruvian giant. chambi’s photograph of sihuana is a sensitive portrait of an indigenous peruvian man in traditional dress, including a draped poncho and chullo cap.

“sihuana’s direct gaze confronts the viewer. his stance and surroundings mimic painted portraits of a century earlier, like afro-peruvian portraitist josé gil de castro’s portrayal of the marques de torre-tagle (below).

although gil de castro never traveled to europe, he became famous for his ability to represent the peruvian elite in grand style. much like sihuana, the gentlemanly tagle is positioned in front of a cloth of honor and surrounded by decorative objects that help to signal his “status.”

born to a quechua family in the coasa district of southern peru, chambi first encountered photography at the age of 14, while working at the british mining company santo domingo, where his father also worked. it was here that he came across two british company photographers, angus and ferrin, who showed him the workings of the camera.

within a few years, in 1908, he moved to arequipa to become assistant to max t. vargas, a renowned photographer and owner of one of the most well-known studios in the city. in his nine years training with vargas, chambi learned the technical and aesthetic fundamentals of artistic portraiture and outdoor photography, exhibiting his work locally and establishing connections with arequipa’s vibrant artistic community.

above portraits of two peruvian women by martin chambi

 

irving penn met chambi in the early days of his career and the influence on his work is very much recognizable

above portraits of a peruvian man not by martin chambi, but rather the american photographer irving penn

incredible portraits of max ernst and dorothea tanning by irving penn

 

this period marks the beginning of his successful career, when he participated in multiple photographic competitions and earned himself several copper medals on various occasions.

around 1917, chambi opened his own photographic studio, first in the town sicuani and then in cusco.

while his studio soon became the regional leader in natural light portraiture, the artist also worked as a photographic correspondent for national journals and newspapers documenting streets, monuments, everyday scenes of urban and rural life, events, and gatherings, as well as peruvian architectural and archaeological sites.

he photographed the incan citadel machu picchu, and documented an array of subjects, from the prominent families of cuzco to the daily lives of the andean communities and the working class. his photojournalism and nationalist spirit were shaped at a time when foreign explorations of peru’s ancient monuments were at a peak and the tourist industry was just emerging.

it also coincided with the cultural and political emergence of the indigenism movement, in which chambi was profoundly influential for changing the way the country was represented through photography.

both his landscapes and his portraits of indigenous sitters from this period challenged traditional understandings of national identity and representation, and it was through his extensive photographic records, publications, and postcard production that he radically changed perceptions of the region, leaving an indelible mark on peruvian visual culture. over the course of his life, chambi’s work was widely recognized, exhibited, and published both in peru and throughout latin america, leaving behind a massive and profoundly influential body of work as peru’s first indigenous photographer. by jp

bananas are back in

andy warhols velvet underground LP cover

 

our favorite – Chiquita banana

banksy  –  pulp fiction

banana speculations – stock prices

“certificates of authenticity are crucial in conceptual art…”

the duchampian-style work incited art fair mayhem upon its launch only to be eaten by another artists in a performance pice titled hungry artist – the eaten banana was then replaced

from andy warhols velvet underground banana cover, to banksy’s pulp fiction spoof, to maurizio cattelans duct tape banana… the point is bananas are just good for you, not to mention a symbol of global trade… by cm

HIFI review magazine: original opinions on the Bose 901 back in 1968

original bose 901s – not the greatest audiophile sound for the money, but surely interesting to look at with its horizontal approach and beautiful cabinetry.

in the light of the new hyped-up kith + bose collab reissues of this classic speaker we thought we’d share a bit of its history, as i myself once considered buying a pair, almost a decade ago, but instead opted for a pair of magnepans instead… but here it is non-the-less… “there may be no singular product in modern audio history that has generated more accolades, derision, or pure controversy than the bose 901 loudspeaker. introduced in 1968 by a then four-year-old concern named after its MIT-educated founder, the 901 neither looked, nor sounded, like any speaker that had come before it. with its pentagonal cabinet that faced eight of its nine identical 4-inch, full-range drivers at the reflecting wall behind the speaker, its designer amar bose sought to have it mimic the way we hear in concert halls and imbue its sound with a giant soundstage and spatial realism that was unsurpassed.

amar bose and his 901’s in a clear cabinet

copy of bose 901 series III owners manual

beyond any success of its spatial trickery, the 901 had its issues — the combination of its small cabinet and unusual dispersion pattern required equalization at both ends of the frequency spectrum, and it was (not surprisingly) room and placement sensitive. some sophisticated audiophiles bemoaned a perceived lack of detail and veiled quality to its sound. j. gordon holt, founding editor of our high-end sister publication stereophile, noted in a 1971 commentary that the 901 “produces a more realistic semblance of natural ambience than any other speaker system, but we would characterize it as unexceptional in all other respects.” my own mentor, harry pearson, jr., told me in the early 1980s that he bought a pair of first-generation 901s after reading the positive reviews in the mainstream audio press and was so disappointed that it prompted him to found the absolute sound as an alternative voice.

you are looking at he BACK of the speaker here

in the legend and mythology of the bose 901, the review we’ve reprinted here, written by julian hirsch for hifi stereo review’s september 1968 issue, looms large. it has been suggested by some observers that few factors beyond bose’s own advertising contributed more to the speaker’s huge commercial success. while the review retained hirsch’s usual dispassionate and professorial voice, it was certainly as close to a rave as he ever got. in 1998, when sr celebrated its 40th anniversary and hirsch was asked to reflect on the most noteworthy products he’d encountered, he cited the 901 right alongside such classics as the original shure v15 cartridge, the marantz 10b tuner, and the dynaco a-25 bookshelf speaker. back in ’68, the 901 review appeared without fanfare and was mixed among the several featured each issue in hirsch’s “technical talk” department, which always began with a brief essay (not reproduced here), followed up by a handful of product tests.”

above sound dispersion and positioning – positioning the 901s, which fire backwards, in a standard room can be challenging as the 12-inch gap necessary between the apex of the speaker and the wall places the front of the speaker about 30 inches from the wall. you need to be sure to have a room that can accommodate that. over all a great consumer level speaker system, with some proper positioning and staging however in my opinion “too much electronics” to make this a true pure sound audiophile unit

original  hifi stereo review magazine review from 1968

“depending on one’s viewpoint, the bose 901 speaker system might be considered a revolutionary approach to sound reproduction, or simply a workable combination of well-established (and sometimes deprecated) techniques. the bose 901 enclosures house nine small, specially designed drivers that have 4-inch cones and powerful magnetic structures. eight of the drivers are angled to the rear, while the ninth is mounted on the front of the enclosure facing the listening area. this arrangement is intended to achieve approximately the same ratio of direct to reflected sound that exists in the concert hall…” to see the rest of the review by julian hirsch, in the 1968 issue of hifi stereo review magazine, click on the link. by ss