THE CIRCUS OF FASHION – SUZY MENKES

want to talk about fashion week dd? the best piece of the season is this article by suzy menkes in the new york times. fashion circus, blogger craze and this kind of thing…

“We were once described as “black crows” — us fashion folk gathered outside an abandoned, crumbling downtown building in a uniform of Comme des Garçons or Yohji Yamamoto. “Whose funeral is it?” passers-by would whisper with a mix of hushed caring and ghoulish inquiry, as we lined up for the hip, underground presentations back in the 1990s.

Today, the people outside fashion shows are more like peacocks than crows. They pose and preen, in their multipatterned dresses, spidery legs balanced on club-sandwich platform shoes, or in thigh-high boots under sculptured coats blooming with flat flowers.

There is likely to be a public stir when a group of young Japanese women spot their idol on parade: the Italian clothes peg Anna Dello Russo. Tall, slim, with a toned and tanned body, the designer and fashion editor is a walking display for designer goods: The wider the belt, the shorter and puffier the skirt, the more outré the shoes, the better. The crowd around her tweets madly: Who is she wearing? Has she changed her outfit since the last show? When will she wear her own H&M collection? Who gave her those mile-high shoes?!…” more here

by pp.

Ulyana Sergeenko couture

maybe burlap, twine and peasant aprons are not within the traditional view of couture decadence, but the offerings from ulyana sergeenko over the past 2 seasons are very much the beauty we want for tomorrow. see the rest of this collection here, and her debut season of couture here.  by kl

non gendered reality per saint laurent

i absolutely love the current revisit and further integration into life of the gender/non-gender issue. i might note i am very much a girl, i can’t help but look girly even if i don’t dress so, and i like many a-girly perk, at the same time i don’t like intensional guidelines, and  i feel like the future of identity is finally positively being explored in a way that is infiltrating life. girls who like girls who like boys who like girls? wut? like whoever you want, dress however you want. mix up your boundaries, have fun, be serious. that’s the way it should be. that’s an attitude that makes me love new york, do what you want and no one cares.

and here are some stunning pix of saskia de brauw shot by hedi slimane for his recent Saint Laurent menswear campaign. by kl

portfolio

when paulina was still on top and hot pink backgrounds were a plenty, therein existed portfolio.  take a look for yourself at the kitschy cluster of a film. by sv

I have a crush: Giovanna Battaglia

if i was a woman i would want to be her…. i have to admit giovanna is my new crush. love the way she carries herself and what immaculate style. too bad she’s going out with that roitfeld trustafarian painter boy. to me, she sits up there with the other two of my favorite style icons, capucine and  anouk aimee. they must be related in some way. well giovanna, if you ever leave vladimir you know where you can find me. by xy

restraint, it’s a beautiful thing

a short film featuring the lovely tiiu kuik by daemian smith and christine suarez. it’s a feast for the eyes, but like most fashion films it’s a bit of a nonsense.  pretty yet random pictures spliced together on finalcut, and the gorgeous track by violinist michael galasso (wong kar-wai’s film in the mood for love) is once again belittled in yet another random clip. i can envision michael roll over in his grave each time this track is used. i am actually not dissing them at all, as i can understand the devastating temptation for anyone to try and want to recreate an ounce of that magic when maggie drifted past the camera to this track. even i contemplated it a few times but the best of me took over. just remember this:

“what makes someone truly great is not only about what they do, but what they choose not to do when it’s most tempting.”

its almost like sex (think about it) or let me put it a different way, it’s like being a publisher of a magazine and “surprisingly” picking yourself to shoot the covers (like rankin did) or putting your mug on every other page (like zahm did), how obvious, easy and lame is that? again i could have done any of that but i didn’t. i always felt that you have to earn it to own it. restraint, it’s a beautiful thing…. you know its been almost 15 years that i have wanted this specific and rather costly chess set.  one day, a few years ago, my mom said “you talk about this so much Ill get it for you for your birthday.” i was crushed.  she didn’t get it, i’m simply not  good enough at chess to deserve that set… but i haven’t given up yet. maybe one day I’ll earn it!  by uh